In a conversation that takes us to the heart of Spanish trufficulture, 23-year-old Elisa Megan shares her story. The daughter of a truffle grower, she tells us how her life took an unexpected turn, leading her from studying in Madrid to working in the fields of Soria.
Elisa offers a fresh perspective on a centuries-old tradition, detailing the challenges of the climate, the excitement of the search, and the special connection with her truffle dog, Kota. Her story is a testament to how agriculture can attract young people, showing that passion and dedication can flourish on any terrain.
(If you prefer, you can watch the video interview by clicking here)
Tell us a little about yourself and what you do.
My name is Elisa Megan. I'm 23 years old. I'm a trufficulturist in Soria. And yes, this is my job.
When did you move to Spain and what was the experience like at first?
I moved here to Spain in 2009. I was 8 years old. At first, it was a little scary. My sister and I didn't go out at all. We ran away from everyone and only wanted to go out with my mother. But, we started making friends, and over time, we got used to this town.
What led you to start working in trufficulture?
At first, I was studying in Madrid and I finished my studies. Then COVID arrived. We were confined here, and my father, of course, was working in the field. So he asked for my help and I started to come. I started to enjoy it, and over time, here I am, working every day.
What has the experience of this first season been like for you?
Well, I started the 2022 and 2023 season. The climate is a bit challenging. You have to get used to how it freezes, how it rains—and you also have to come when it rains—or how hot it gets in the middle of the day. But in the end, I started learning about the dogs and the truffles, studying everything my father studied. And yeah, I started to like it.
Why did you decide to get more involved in this business?
I got more involved because, as I said, my father wanted and needed help. So I started pruning the trees. We started putting in the irrigation system. And I like being out here, spending time with my father or with the dogs. It's really nice.
How do you train a truffle dog?
Well, it's not easy to train a dog. We have four dogs, and we trained three of them ourselves, by hiding the truffle and simply rewarding them every time they found it. But this last dog, Kota, is from a professional breeder. So he was already trained, and I just had to continue that training, which involved using metal balls, like the ones you use for tea, and we had to put the truffle inside. You start by burying it just below the surface and rewarding him every time he finds it, and over time, you dig deeper and deeper.
What's the most exciting thing about finding a truffle?
I think the excitement of finding a truffle is that you never know what's going to come out of that hole. You don't know the size, the quantity, the quality, if it's natural, or if it's from one of the holes we make with the substrate... yeah, it's always like a game.
What's the biggest challenge in trufficulture?
The biggest challenge in trufficulture, I think, is the climate and how it affects the trees. Like in summer, if it's too hot, you don't know how long you have to water, or if you have to water more often. Or later in the winter, if you have a very harsh winter. The cold isn't pleasant for digging, and neither is the rain. So, yeah.
How important is water for truffle production?
Yes. Water is absolutely fundamental. Water and spores are the most important things for the trees.
In your opinion, what makes Spanish truffles so special?
Well, I think Spanish truffles are so special and have this great value because of their aroma, flavor, and quality. And I believe that in all those things, Spain's climate and soil help a lot in the growth of those truffles.
How has truffle farming impacted your village and young people?
I think truffle farming has grown quite a lot in my village and in other villages, in other areas. And yes, I think it has helped young people to stay here and work outdoors, to work in agriculture. It is a form of agriculture. And at least that is my case.
How does Laumont help you as truffle growers?
Well, I think Laumont helps us as truffle growers by creating a very good relationship with their clients, as they did with us, especially with Javi. And they have offered us contacts in administrative agencies, such as ecological consultants, if at any point we wanted to try managing the land as an organic field.
What is the process for selling your truffles to Laumont?
Well, you take them to your house, you put them in the fridge, or that’s how we store them. And someone comes and collects them. We put them in bags and weigh them. They have a label, each one with its specific number so they know which client it belongs to. And then they simply take them away, they arrive at Laumont and they carry out a selection process of the truffles.
What is the best way to learn about truffle farming?
I think the best way to learn about truffle farming is by going with someone who has this type of business and observing what they do every day, the process and how they maintain the field. I think that is the best way. But you can also find books and information on the Internet, since this has spread quite a lot and it is quite easy, maybe, to start in some way.
Where do you see yourself and your business in five or ten years?
In five or ten years, I definitely see myself continuing with this truffle business. And I think that with the plantation I made down there, where my trees are younger, in the future or in a few years they could start producing and that will help me to buy more land and continue this business.
